Tag Archives: Photo Editor

ACDSee Provides Update for Photo Editor 2008

The other day i was scrapping with Photo Editor and I was not able to do a Save for Web, which converts the apd file to a jpg. I was able to convert the file in Photo Manager, so it all worked out ok. But I was frustrated, especially since I could not figure out what was different.

Then I remembered. New computer! My old computer died a very long and drawn out death, and I had to get a new-to-me computer, one that was running Windows 7. A couple of days after that, I see that ACDSee has an update to fix this.
So if you are using ACDsee Photo Editor with Windows 7 and can’t figure out why you can’t save jpgs, this is your answer. Go to ACDsee.com and downlaod the update.

Happy scrapping!


Artistic/Sketch Filters in ACDSee Photo Editor 2008

This post is based on a tutorial written by Ona Boorman, for a challenge posted at Oscraps.com

Photo Editor 2008 has some very detailed  and creative filters that can be used in a variety of ways on photos, as well as on papers and elements. Let’s look at some examples.

Here is a photo SOOC (Straight out of the Camera)

Now I am going to add a  filter to it. In Photo Editor these are called Adjustments and  there are several different categories. For this challenge, we will focus on the Category of “Artistic.”

You can access these  Adjustments by either going to Adjustments| Artistic and choosing the one you want from the drop-down list, or you can use the Adjustments Palette located on the right side of the screen above the Object Palette.  In the Adjustments Palette, there is a thumbnail image that shows an example of what the effect will look like on an image.

In this example, I am going to use “Crystallize.” The image will open in a new window and you will be able to choose how to view the image. I like being able to see the “Before and After” as I work.

There are automatic variations that you can select. Simply click on the different thumbnails, check out the effect in the “After” image and choose the one you like best. This is easy to do, and doesn’t require anything more than seeing what looks good visually.


If you have a specific idea in mind of how you want the “After” image to look you can use the controls at the bottom on the workspace to get the exact look you want. In this example, you can manually adjust Crystal size, and Crystal Saturation.  Move the sliders back and forth until you find a result that works best with your photo.

To make this photo look almost like an Impressionist Painting, I used a Crystal Size of 8 and a Saturation of 4.


Let’s try a different style photo with a different Adjustment effect.

Here is my dog, Ravyn, SOOC.


I am going to use the Crayon Drawing Effect, which is “Automatic” only.  After one run of this Adjustment, I am not very excited by the “After” image. Its mostly white with little definition in the image.

I run the Crayon Drawing again and I have a much more colorful and detailed image.


PS:  I have recently upgraded to Windows 7. For some reason, Photo Editor does not like to save JPGs. I had no problem  using this tutorial with Windows 2000 or Vista. If you are running Windows 7 and want to save an image as a JPG, there is a work-around. Save the file as a PNG in Photo Editor. Open the PNG in another editing program such as ACDSee Photo Manager. Save the file as a JPG.

Creating a Clipping Mask in ACDSee Photo Editor 2008

Creating a Clipping Mask in ACDSee Photo Editor 2008
adapted from Creating a Clipping Mask by Ona Boorman

A couple of days ago, I spent a few hours with Photo Editor, trying to make a clipping mask like Ona had done in PSE. After a lot of different attempts, I think I figured out that you can’t. You can Combine| Punch a Vector Shape or Text with an image, but you can’t do it with two images or with an image on top of a vector shape, which is how Ona made her mask.

But I am not one to give up easily. While I can’t make a mask in the same manner, I can make a mask using Photo Editor tools, such as Shapes and Text. So here we go!

Step One: Create a new page (Crtl-N) with a transparent background. I am using the scrapbook settings of 12×12, 300 dpi.

Step  Two:  Draw a rectangle shape with the Shape tool.  The default fill color will be black, but if you want to change it to a medium grey shade as suggested in original tutorial, click on the top rectangle next to “Colors” on the tool bar. This brings up the color selection box. Select the hade of grey you want, then click ok.

Step Three: Add Text. Select the Text tool,  choose a font, and type on the rectangle. You can then use you Navigation Tool to position it and/or resize it on the rectangle. Select both Object Layers, then go to Object |Combine| Punch. Then Object| Convert to Image (Render). If this is all you want to do, you can save the file as a png and use it with the Trim to Shape tool, with an image file.

Step Four: Lets add some details. Select a png file. I am using a Floral piece from Floral Brushes by Carla Gibson. Open the png file, and while it is selected, click on Object| Create Brush.

Step Five. Switch to the Eraser tool. Go to Saved Brushes, an click on the brush you just made. Place that brush over the Rectangle and stamp the brush to erase part of the mask. It might be hard to place the Eraser exactly where you want it, but don’t hesitate to Undo (Ctrl-Z) and try again.

Once your png is created as a Brush, you can’t change the size or orientation. If you want to use the same image but in a different size, open the png back up again, change it the way you want, then go back to Object| Create Brush.

Save it as a png and now we can use it as a mask on a photo.

Step Six: Open a photo and drag it beneath your mask. Select both layers, then Click Trim To Shape. Save again as a png.

And the finished Layout:

Kit is Isnt she lovely by ZuzanaH and Cucciola Designs at Oscraps.

3-1 Special at ACDSee

This is a great deal. You can get ACDSee Photo Editor and FotoSlate for free when you purchase ACDSee Photo Manager for $69.99. If you are already an ACDSee customer you can get additional discounts as well. Get all of the details at ACDSee’s Website.

Blending Papers in Photo Editor

One of my favorite “Fantasy” style digital scrap designers is Mystique Designs from Oscraps. Her papers are simply fabulous. They look gorgeous just on their own, but when you layer and blend them, you can make them make them even dreamier.

I am going to make a fantasy faery page using the photo that extracted in a previous blog post and some of Mystique’s kits. First I drag my photo and a few of the papers from the kit Anyone Else But You into the image basket. Then I take one of the papers and open that up. I drag my photo onto that page, but the paper is too “green” for the photo which has a pink cast to it. The second paper I choose has a pinker/cooler tone to it. I drag that on top of the first paper, and now I get to play with the  Transfer (blending) Modes. I start with the first Transfer Mode and work my way down until I can visually see which one looks the best blended with my photo. For this layout, the Burn Mode, at 90% opacity works perfectly. It gives the background paper a mysterious feel but is not overpowering. The two papers blend nicely.

However, against the soft feel of the papers, the harder edges from the extracted photo don’t work as well. I am going to select the photo and feather the edges a tiny bit. This involves using the Image Masks. In the Object Palette, click on the far right box that says “Edit Mask (Image Invisible)” This changes the image to a black and white object. Use the Magic Wand Tool to select the white potion of the image.  Go to Image| Selection| Feather.  I used a Feathering of 15 pixels. Now click Delete and the photo now has a softer edge.

Now all I have left to do is add some elements from Anyone Else But You and Forever and drop shadows, and a title. I love this page!

Extractions in Photo Editor

A lot of times, new scrappers think that extractions are complicated and difficult. I know that I used to think that. But they aren’t really, as long as you have an editing program with a good zoom and a relatively steady hand.  You might think that you need a really steady hand, but I get some bad tremors in my hands from Lyme and I can still get a pretty decent extraction.

One disclaimer: I do use a pen and tablet rather than a mouse. I have been using a Wacom for years. I had a Graphire, and my mother in law upgraded me to a Bamboo Craft for Christmas last year. If you do a lot of extractions, detailed work and/or doodling, a tablet is the way to go.

Ok- lets go! Open your photo in Photo Editor. I am using this one:

There are a few different tools you can use to cut away the background here: Lasso, Polygon Lasso, Smart Lasso, and occasionally, the Magic Wand. I personally think that the regular polygon lasso is the easiest use and to control. Select the Polygon Lasso, which is found under “Select.” Place your pen/mouse in one spot on the photo and click around your photo. At this point, I keep my photo where I can see the entire file on my screen. You don’t need to get too close yet, we’ll zoom in afterward.  Close of your selection by clicking back on your starting point. Your Lasso now converts to a selection, which is seen by the infamous “marching ants.”

Invert the selection Object | Selection | Invert or Ctrl-Shift-I. Delete the selection. This will leave you with the main image and a bit of the background surrounding it. Save your file as an apd. Next, grab your “block eraser.”  This is found the default Saved Brushes Palette. Depending on how much background is left, you will most likely want to zoom in. In Photo Editor, just hit your plus key to zoom. To zoom out, use the minus key. To move your photo around the screen, pressing the Space Bar changes the Eraser temporarily to the Hand Tool. Use that to move the photo so you can eraser all around it. If you have tight areas or ones that are curving, I find that it is better to use short, small eraser strokes picking the pen/mouse up to end the stroke often. If you make a mistake and “cut in” to your photo to close, you only have to undo small portions this way.

This is where I am at after this step:

Now it is time for a different eraser. We want something with a soft edge so we don’t get a jagged, pixelated look.I picked saved eraser “13.” Then I changed its default settings to 1 pixel spacing. If you keep the spacing at its 25 pixel setting, you will have much less control over the eraser. Zoom back in and using your eraser and space bar, slowly erase around the edges of your photo. It is always better to go a bit slower and go back over a spot then have to start over if you “over-erase.” If you need to change the size of your eraser tip, just go up to the Tool Bar and change the brush size. This is especially helpful with getting into tight spaces. remember to use short strokes and Ctrl-Z if you make a mistake.

Odd Tip: Sometimes it is easier to work stroking to the right or to the left, depending on the photo and your handedness. Here’s an odd tip for you to help: Flip your photo so you can continue working in the direction you are most comfortable. On this photo used Object| Rotate/Flip/Resize and Flip Horizontal so I could work on the right side of the photo. You could even rotate your photo by 90* angles if that helps.

Using your left hand on the space bar/hand tool and your right hand/eraser, go all around the edges of the photo, making sure you have all soft edges.
We are almost done, but before we say “fini” we need to do a quality control check. The easiest way I do this is to add a layer of white or back under your photo. This helps provide contrast so you can quickly see if there are any stray pixels, harsh edges or shadows.

Click on the Rectangle tool and drag that over your photo. Drag that layer under your photo.

Check over your photo to see if you have any spots that need to be cleaned up. I find that a black background is good for finding loose pixels, and white is easier to soften any harsh shadows/edges.

Odd Tip#2:  To switch from black to white in one click: Click on bottom layer, Image| Selection | Invert. Your layer becomes white!

You can see in this shot how the stray pixels became very easy to see on the white background here.

When you are satisfied with your results, delete that bottom layer and your extraction is complete. Save your file as a png and go and use it in a fabulous layout!